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Plugable Thunderbolt™ Docking Station, Dual HDMI with DisplayPort, 96W Charging
$159.95 USD
SKU: TBT3-UDC3Amazon Rating : (192 Reviews)
Features
- 11 Ports of Connectivity—This Thunderbolt and USB C dock enables two 4K monitors via 2x HDMI or 1x HDMI and 1x DisplayPort. Gigabit Ethernet, headset audio jack, and USB expansion including 2x USB-C, and 3x USB 3.0 ports
- 100W Charging—This USB C docking station provides up to 100W charging (96W certified) for compatible USB-C, USB4, Thunderbolt 4, and Thunderbolt 3 laptops via 2.6ft Thunderbolt cable. Safely charges lower wattage devices such as 85W, 65W, and 30W devices
- 4K Display Flexibility—Laptop docking station with an HDMI and DisplayPort port. For dual HDMI monitors, DisplayPort to HDMI adapter included. Drives dual 4K 60Hz displays via Thunderbolt, or dual 1080p 60Hz or single 4K 30Hz display via USB-C. Base model M1, M2, and M3 Macs only support a single display
- Wide Compatibility—This Thunderbolt dock allows for flexibility with USB-C, USB4, Thunderbolt 4, and Thunderbolt 3 laptops, perfect for work-from-home or office environments utilizing both Windows and macOS. Supports 2x extended displays on MacBook Pros with M1 / M2 / M3 Pro or Max chip. See detailed compatibility below
- 2-Year Coverage, Lifetime Support—Every Plugable product, including this docking station, is covered against defects for 2 years and comes with lifetime support. If you ever have questions, contact our North American-based team - even before purchase
Free 3-Day Shipping When Buying Direct!
Thunderbolt 3 and USB-C Docking Station with 100W charging
With broad compatibility across Thunderbolt 4, Thunderbolt 3, USB4, and USB-C laptops, up to 100W of charging power, 40Gbps bandwidth, and dual 4K 60Hz video output with Thunderbolt, this flexible dock is a great choice for no-compromise performance and productivity
Extend your display with dual monitors and stay powered all day with fast 100W charging. The TBT3-UDC3 expands your laptop ports further with two USB-C ports that let you transfer large files quickly so even editing 4K video won’t slow things down, three USB-A ports mean your legacy peripherals won’t be left out, and a wired Ethernet connection and a combination headset audio jack lets you stream, listen, talk, and watch on a full battery. This USB C docking station is compatible with most USB-C, USB4 and Thunderbolt 4 laptops of today and with previous generation Thunderbolt 3 laptops.
100W Charging
Charge your laptop at noticeably faster speeds—so you’ll have one less thing to think about and you can say goodbye to your other power supply. This laptop charging station delivers a fast laptop charging rate for certified Thunderbolt devices up to 100W (96W certified), while also safely charging laptops with lower power requirements.
Even laptops with 140W USB-C chargers such as the M1 Pro/Max, M2 Pro/Max, and M3 Pro/Max MacBook Pros can still be charged by the TBT3-UDC3 under typical load.
*To strictly comply with 100W regulatory limits with margin, Thunderbolt certification limits to charging to 96W.
Dual 4K 60Hz Displays
The TBT3-UDC3 provides full 40Gbps bandwidth so users can extend dual 4K 60Hz displays through 1x HDMI and 1x HDMI/DisplayPort with Thunderbolt and USB4 laptops and dual 1080p 60Hz displays on USB-C laptops.
This Thunderbolt dock is equipped with an HDMI port and a DisplayPort video output to connect to a wider variety of displays.
Have a second HDMI display? We include an additional DisplayPort to HDMI adapter with this laptop docking station, so no need to purchase an additional adapter!
Thunderbolt and USB-C
Using the Intel Titan Ridge chipset, the TBT3-UDC3 provides some of the widest compatibility options in any laptop docking stations.
The Titan Ridge chipset allows Plugable to ensure their docks enjoy some of the widest compatibility options from USB-C to Thunderbolt 4 and USB4. Using this technology, the USB C Dock is also capable of extending dual displays up to 4K 60Hz (not mirrored) with Thunderbolt and USB4 laptops.
When connected to the TBT3-UDC3, M1 / M2 / M3 Base Model MacBooks can only support 1 extended display. M1 Pro/Max, M2 Pro/Max, and M3 Pro/Max MacBook Pros can support up to 2x extended displays.
*Some specifications reduced on USB-C laptops
Operating System Compatibility
Thunderbolt 3 Laptop:- PC: Windows 10 or later
- Mac: macOS High Sierra 10.13 or later
Note: Dock capabilities when used with a USB-C only host (limited functionality) result in lower display resolution and USB bandwidth.
USB-C computers that support DisplayPort 1.4 (DP 1.4) and Display Stream Compression (DSC) can operate at higher resolutions. Please consult your manufacturer to confirm your computer supports DP 1.4.Laptop Compatibility
When connected to Thunderbolt 4, USB4, or Thunderbolt 3 Windows or M1/M2/M3 Pro or M1/M2/M3 Max Mac systems:
- Drive up to two 4096x2160 @ 60Hz displays via a combination of HDMI and DisplayPort (or second HDMI using included DisplayPort to HDMI adapter)
- *Apple M1/M2/M3 base model Macs: Drive a single display at up to 4K via DisplayPort or HDMI. For dock options with support for 2+ monitors, please refer to UD-3900PDZ
- Connect bandwidth-heavy peripherals to rear USB (10Gbps) port and two rear USB-C (10Gbps) ports
- Connect USB peripherals to two front USB 3.0 (5Gbps) ports
When connected to a compatible USB-C only Windows (MFDP) or Mac:
- Drive up to two extended displays up to 1920x1080 @ 60Hz displays via DisplayPort or HDMI
- Drive a single display at up to 4096x2160 @ 30Hz via DisplayPort or HDMI
- Connect USB peripherals to three USB 3.0 (5Gbps) ports, and two USB-C (5Gbps) ports
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
|
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Laptop compatibility |
Thunderbolt 3 and USB-C |
Thunderbolt 3 and USB-C |
Thunderbolt 3 and USB-C |
Thunderbolt |
Thunderbolt |
Power Delivery to host |
100W (96W Certified) |
60W |
100W (96W Certified) |
85W |
60W |
Number of displays supported |
2 |
2 |
2 |
2x (with purchase of a seperate adapter) |
2x (with purchase of a seperate adapter) |
Video output types |
1x HDMI 1x DisplayPort (or second HDMI with included adapter) |
2x DisplayPort |
2x DisplayPort or HDMI |
1x DisplayPort++ (or HDMI with included passive adapter) |
1x DisplayPort (or HDMI with included active adapter) |
Downstream Thunderbolt 3 port |
0 |
0 |
0 |
1 |
1 |
USB-C (data only) ports |
2 |
2 |
1 |
0 |
0 |
USB 3.0 ports |
3 |
3 |
6 |
2 |
5 |
SD/Micro SD |
|||||
Orientation |
Horizontal |
Horizontal |
Vertical or Horizontal |
Horizontal |
Vertical or Horizontal |
Included Thunderbolt 3 cable |
2.6 ft/80cm 40Gbps |
2.6 ft/80cm 40Gbps |
2.6 ft/80cm 40Gbps |
2.6 ft/80cm 40Gbps |
1.6 ft/50cm 40Gbps |
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USB Port Types
USB-A
pietz, CC BY-SA 3.0 , via Wikimedia Commons
This is the standard USB connection that most computers offered prior to the introduction of USB Type-C (USB-C). Even after the introduction of USB Type-C, this is still quite common.
It can provide data transfer rates up to the USB 3.1 Gen 2 (10 gbps) specification depending on the host and device, but does not directly support video in the way that USB-C Alternate Mode does. This limitation makes DisplayLink USB graphics adapters and docking stations ideal on systems that do not have USB-C, or in instances where more displays are needed beyond available video outputs of a PC.
USB-B
Fred the Oyster, CC BY-SA 4.0 , via Wikimedia Commons
IngenieroLoco, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
This type of connection comes in a couple different styles depending on whether USB 3.0 and higher transfer rates are supported (bottom graphic). Usually this type of connection is used to plug into USB devices that do not have a fixed cable connected, such as USB docking stations, USB hubs, printers, and others.
USB Mini-B
Fred the Oyster, CC BY-SA 4.0 , via Wikimedia Commons
One of the first connectors for charging a smartphone, wireless game controller (such as the Sixaxis and DualShock 3), and other small devices such as external hard drives. Not commonly used today, but is still used in some cases. Most devices using USB Mini B are using USB 2.0, though a USB 3.0 variant does exist. This specification also added USB On-The-Go (OTG) functionality, though it is more commonly implemented with Micro USB.
USB Micro-B
Fred the Oyster, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
IngenieroLoco, CC BY-SA 4.0 , via Wikimedia Commons
A smaller connector that serves many of the same uses as the Mini B connector, with added optional features such as Mobile High-Definition Link (MHL) to allow devices like smartphones to output video to larger displays without requiring a dedicated port for video output.
The larger variant of USB-B is most commonly used for external hard drives for higher 5Gbps transfer rates.
USB-C, Thunderbolt™ 3, and Thunderbolt™ 4
Niridya , CC0, via Wikimedia Commons
The most recent USB connection, USB Type-C (USB-C), represents a major change in what USB can do. The connector is smaller, can be connected in two orientations, is able to carry substantially more power and data, and can directly carry video signals of multiple types (HDMI, DisplayPort, etc.) Intel has also adapted the USB-C connector for use with Thunderbolt 3 and Thunderbolt 4.
It is important to note that while all Thunderbolt 3 and Thunderbolt 4 connections are USB-C, not all USB-C connections can be used with Thunderbolt 3 or Thunderbolt 4 devices.
More details regarding physical USB connections can be found on Wikipedia . The graphics depicted here are adapted from Wikimedia Commons by various artists under the Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported license.
Can I Connect a DisplayPort (DP) Monitor to the HDMI Port on This Device Using an Adapter or Cable?
No. Most DisplayPort to HDMI cables and adapters are one-way adapters from a DisplayPort Source (computer or docking station) to a HDMI Sink (television, computer monitor, or projector). These cables do not work in reverse.
DisplayPort uses packet-based data transmission, breaking the video stream into individual packets of data allows for longer cable runs, use in both copper and fiber-optic cables, and allows for higher bandwidth than other video formats. It is relatively easy to convert from DisplayPort to HDMI (computers with HDMI output ports already do this internally) and dual-mode DisplayPort outputs have built-in adapters to output a HDMI signal for use with passive DisplayPort to HDMI adapters.
HDMI uses a video signal, similar to DVI, this requires more power to operate at the same cable lengths as DisplayPort and requires significantly more processing power to create DisplayPort packet-based data.
Externally powered HDMI to DisplayPort adapters do exist, these generally have a USB or small barrel plug for power, and can convert from a HDMI Source to DisplayPort Sink. In most cases they have reduced resolution or refresh rates compared to modern signal sources and can introduce delay in the data connection between the display and computer potentially causing reduced connectivity or display performance problems.
We do not currently recommend using HDMI to DisplayPort adapter with our docking stations. In our testing they have been unreliable compared to a native DisplayPort connection. Many of our newer docking stations include both HDMI and DisplayPort outputs to reduce the need for additional adapters or adapter cables.
Understanding and Troubleshooting Network Performance
Computer networking is a complex topic. In this article, we'll be taking a deep dive on the nuances of network performance for those who need some additional explanation while striving to be concise, and to educate users of various experience levels relating computer hardware and computer networking.
If you just need to know how to perform a network performance test/benchmark, jump down to configuring iPerf.
Core Network Concepts
LAN vs WAN
With regards to network performance, it is crucial to first separate whether an issue is with Wide Area Network (WAN) performance, or if the issue is with Local Area Network (LAN) performance.
Your LAN is essentially the network inside your home or business. Many homes use a combination modem/router device provided by their Internet Service Provider (ISP). In some cases, especially in businesses, you may have a separate modem and router, along with other equipment connecting to the router such as a network switch.
Your modem, and the connection it establishes to your ISP—whether through coaxial cable, fiber, phone lines, or long-range wireless—essentially marks the point between the WAN and the LAN. The connection your modem makes to your ISP is the WAN, and any devices you connect through your router behind that modem belong to the LAN.
Link Rate
Almost every type of connection your computer makes to any piece of hardware will have a link rate of some kind. The link rate establishes how fast data can possibly be transferred across any given connection, but it does not guarantee how fast the hardware on either end of the connection will actually transfer data.
The concept of link rates, and their related bottlenecks, is likely best conveyed by giving an example of what connections might be involved in transferring a file from one computer on your LAN to another.
- 800Mbps—The file source is a USB 3.0 thumb drive capable of 100MB/s (800Mbps) read/write.
- 480Mbps—The USB 3.0 thumb drive is plugged into a USB 2.0 port on the PC, which has a maximum throughput of 480Mbps
- 1000Mbps—PC1's Ethernet connection establishes 1Gbps (1000Mbps) link to the router via Ethernet
- 300Mbps—The router connects to a second PC (we'll refer to this as PC2) via Wi-Fi, and it has established a 300Mbps link to the Wi-Fi adapter on PC2
- 480Mbps—The Wi-Fi adapter on PC2 is connected via a USB 2.0 port. The link rate of the USB connection to PC2 is at 480Mbps
- 6000Mbps—PC2 is going to store the file on an internal hard drive with a link rate of 6Gbps
- 1600Mbps—File Destination: SATA hard drive capable of 200MB/s (1600Mbps) read/write.
Following this chain, we see that 300Mbps is the slowest link rate established. This means that, regardless of the link rates established elsewhere, the absolute maximum the data can possibly be transferred is 300Mbps.
if we were to change the Wi-Fi connection to a wired Ethernet connection capable of 1Gbps, our performance bottleneck would then become the USB 2.0 connection to the USB drive where the file is stored.
Ports and Interfaces
Interfaces
A network interface represents connections, whether wired or wireless, that are made to form a network between devices.
Ports
Some may refer to physical hardware connections as "ports". For the purposes of networking, ports are logical constructs that can also be referred to as "network ports". Each network interface has 65,535 of these logical ports. Each port on a network interface is a separate data connection.
Benchmarking Network Adapter Performance
To properly benchmark network adapter performance, we need to:
- Use a simple LAN configuration
- Eliminate bottlenecks, especially link rate bottlenecks
Websites like speedtest.net, fast.com, and other performance tools in your web browser are going to use your WAN connection, and are not appropriate for determining if a network adapter is working well.
Transferring files from one computer to another on your LAN is typically not the best way to benchmark a network adapter. File transfers are bottlenecked by a number of things, including performance limitations of the disk the data is on, and often times a lack of establishing parallel network connections to perform the task.
One of the most accurate ways to benchmark network performance on a LAN is by using iPerf . To more effectively benchmark network adapter performance, it is best to establish a point-to-point connection between two PCs, rather than connecting through a router or switch.
Configuring iPerf
To test a connection using iPerf, you'll need at least two network interfaces, and preferably two computers. You'll also need to know the IP (Internet Protocol) address assigned to each network interface . One network interface will function as an iPerf server, and the other network interface will function as an iPerf client. Lastly, you'll need to download the version of iPerf 3.x that's appropriate for your computer's operating system and extract/install it .
Windows
- Make sure the drivers for both network interfaces involved in the test are using up-to-date drivers. Drivers for Plugable products can be found here.
- Download and extract iPerf for Windows
- Open Command Prompt
- Press Windows Key + R or + R, then enter
cmdin the window that appears - Search the Start Menu for
Command Prompt, and open it
- Press Windows Key + R or + R, then enter
- Navigate Command Prompt to the directory the directory where iPerf is located
- The
cdcommand is for 'change directory'- If you have a folder named 'iperf' on your Windows desktop, you can reach it in command prompt with the command
cd %USERPROFILE%\Desktop\iperf
- If you have a folder named 'iperf' on your Windows desktop, you can reach it in command prompt with the command
- The
- Run iperf in server mode via Command Prompt
iperf3.exe -s
macOS
- Usually it is best to install iperf on macOS using brew in Terminal
- Make sure the drivers for both network interfaces involved in the test are using up-to-date drivers
- Open Terminal
- Run iPerf in server mode
iperf3 -s
Linux
- Usually it is best to install iperf using the package manager in your Linux distro. For example, in Ubuntu, use
apt: sudo apt install iperf3
- Make sure the drivers for both network interfaces involved in the test are using up-to-date Drivers
- Open Terminal
- Run iPerf in server mode
iperf3 -s
Next, you'll need to run iPerf in client mode, targeting the IP address of the server/interface where iPerf is running in server mode. Additionally, we'll run the test for 30 seconds using -t 30 and with four parallel connections using -P 4. Running 4 parallel connections is optimal for saturating a network link.
Windows
- Open Command Prompt
- Press Windows Key + R or + R, then enter
cmdin the window that appears - Search the Start Menu for
Command Prompt, and open it
- Press Windows Key + R or + R, then enter
- Navigate Command Prompt to the directory the directory where iPerf is located
- The
cdcommand is for 'change directory'- If you have a folder named 'iperf' on your Windows desktop, you can reach it in command prompt with the command
cd %USERPROFILE%\Desktop\iperf
- If you have a folder named 'iperf' on your Windows desktop, you can reach it in command prompt with the command
- The
- Run iperf in client mode via Command Prompt (replace 192.168.0.200 with the IP address of the server/interface where iPerf is running in server mode)
iperf3.exe -c 192.168.0.200 -t 30 -P 4
macOS / Linux
- Open Terminal
- Run iPerf in client mode (replace 192.168.0.200 with the IP address of the server/interface where iPerf is running in server mode)
iperf3 -c 192.168.0.200 -t 30 -P 4
iPerf should start performing a network performance test. If the test fails to start, make sure that iPerf is not being blocked by your PC's/Mac's firewall.
Why iPerf is Ideal for Benchmarking
Unlike a file transfer, iPerf runs in memory on the PC and generates data to send using the CPU directly. This alleviates potential bottlenecks generated by storage devices, and allows you to explicitly control how many parallel connections are being used to transfer data rather than being unsure if parallel network connections are being used by other means.
Conclusion
There's a lot more to networking that isn't covered in this article, but we hope this helps explain enough to get an accurate measure of your network performance.
If you need assistance with your Plugable product that features network connectivity, please contact us for further assistance.
No Sound? How to Change Your Default Audio Device to Your Plugable Product
Whether you're on Windows, macOS, or Linux, it's common to add new audio devices to your computer.
Some examples of additional audio devices you may want to switch to include:
- Bluetooth headsets, headphones, and speakers
- Speakers built into a display, such as a TV or monitor
- A USB sound card, digital audio converter (DAC), or analog to digital converter (ADC)
- USB microphones
- Audio jacks on a docking station
These steps don't apply to the Plugable Performance NIX HDMI Capture Card (USBC-CAP60).
Here are the steps that you need to set a new default audio recording or output device on different operating systems.
Set Audio Output Device
Set Audio Recording Device
Set Default Playback Device in Windows
- Check that your device is properly connected, and that any necessary drivers are installed
- It is also a good idea to make sure that your sound device is turned on, and that the device's volume control is not at the absolute minimum setting
- Right-click on the speaker symbol in the Windows taskbar/system tray
-
Windows 7/8.x—Select Playback Devices. The Sound window will open with the Playback tab highlighted
-
Windows 10/11—Select Open Sound Settings then click the link under 'Related Settings' for Sound Control Panel, then click the Playback tab
- Alternatively, after selecting Open Sound Settings, use the dropdowns under the Output header
-
Windows 7/8.x—Select Playback Devices. The Sound window will open with the Playback tab highlighted
- Find your device in the window
- A Plugable USB 3.0 docking station or sound-enabled display adapter will appear as Plugable Audio
- A Plugable USB 3.0 Silicon Motion docking station or sound-enabled display adapter will appear as SMI USB Audio
- A Plugable USB 2.0 docking station will appear as USB Multimedia Audio Device
- A Plugable USB Audio adapter will appear as USB Audio Device
- Right-click on the device you found in step 3 and select Set as Default Device. A check mark should appear next to your device, and sound should now play through it
- Click OK to exit the window
Additional Configuration for Bluetooth
Please see our pairing and configuration guide for Bluetooth devices.
Set Default Playback Device in macOS
- Open System Preferences
- Click Sound
- Select Output
- Select the most appropriate device
- A Plugable USB Audio adapter will appear as USB Audio Device
Set Default Playback Device in Linux
- Ensure that you audio device is connected to the PC
- If the audio device is self-powered, it is a good idea to make sure that it is powered on, and that the device's volume control is not at the absolute minimum setting
- Launch the 'Settings' application in your distro
- Go to the 'Sound' option
- Find the dropdown for your 'Output Device', and change it to your preferred output device
- For additional sound device controls, you may want to consider using Pulseaudio Volume Controls (package name pavucontrol)
Set Default Recording Device in Windows
- Check that your device is properly connected, and that any necessary drivers are installed
- It is also a good idea to make sure that your sound device is turned on, and that the device's volume control is not at the absolute minimum setting
- Right-click on the speaker symbol in the Windows taskbar/system tray
-
Windows 7/8.x—Select Recording Devices. The Sound window will open with the Recording tab highlighted
-
Windows 10/11—Select Open Sound Settings then click the link under 'Related Settings' for Sound Control Panel, then click the Recording tab
- Alternatively, after selecting Open Sound Settings, use the dropdowns under the Input header
-
Windows 7/8.x—Select Recording Devices. The Sound window will open with the Recording tab highlighted
- Find your device in the window
- A Plugable USB 3.0 DisplayLink docking station or sound-enabled display adapter will appear as Plugable Audio
- A Plugable USB 2.0 docking station will appear as USB Multimedia Audio Device
- A Plugable USB Audio adapter will appear as USB Audio Device
- Right-click on the device you found in step 3 and select Set as Default Device. A check mark should appear next to your device, and sound should now play through it
- Click OK to exit the window
Additional Configuration for Bluetooth
Please see our pairing and configuration guide for Bluetooth devices.
Set Default Recording Device in macOS
- Open System Preferences
- Click Sound
- Select Input
- Select the most appropriate device
- A Plugable USB Audio adapter will appear as USB Audio Device
Set Default Recording Device in Linux
- Ensure that you audio device is connected to the PC
- If the audio device is self-powered, it is a good idea to make sure that it is powered on, and that the device's volume control is not at the absolute minimum setting
- Launch the 'Settings' application in your distro
- Go to the 'Sound' option
- Find the dropdown for your 'Input Device', and change it to your preferred input device
- For additional sound device controls, you may want to consider using Pulseaudio Volume Controls (package name pavucontrol)
My Docking Station/Adapter Works Well With My Windows Laptop, but When I Close the Lid the Displays and Laptop Turn Off or Sleep. How Do I Fix This?
Most Windows notebook computers power management settings will default to putting the computer to sleep with the lid closed, regardless of any external displays, keyboard, or mouse connected to the computer. If this is happening but you would prefer the system to remain active with the lid closed utilizing the external display or displays, these settings can be changed by performing the following:
For Windows 10:
- Start by right-clicking on the Start button and select Power Options from the menu.
- From the right side of the Power Options settings page, select the blue link for Additional power settings
- From the choices present on the left-hand side of the Power Options window, please click on Choose what closing the lid does
- Make sure the setting for When I close the lid under the Plugged In column is set to Do Nothing
- Click the Save Changes button and restart the system (making sure that the laptop’s power adapter is also connected) and test the behavior again.
For Windows 11:
- Start by right-clicking on the Start button and select Power Options from the menu.
- In the upper left corner of the settings window, in the search box, type "lid" then select Change what closing the lid does from the search results
- Make sure the setting for When I close the lid under the Plugged In column is set to Do Nothing
- Click the Save Changes button to apply the new settings.
Closing the lid should no longer put the computer into sleep mode when an external display and power source is connected, instead one of the external displays should now become the Primary display with the desktop icons instead of the laptop's built-in display.
The lid may still need to be opened to perform the following tasks:
- To power on the computer from a fully powered off state
- To log into the computer if logged out or if the computer is restarted with the lid closed
- To wake the computer from a deep sleep state ( hibernation, or Windows hybrid sleep states )
Only one monitor is working, what can I do to fix this?
This article applies to Plugable Thunderbolt 3 docking stations such as these:
- TBT3-UDZ Thunderbolt™ 3 and USB-C Dual Display Dock with 96W Host Charging
- TBT3-UDC1 Thunderbolt™ 3 and USB-C Dual Display Docking Station with 60W Host Charging
- TBT3-UDC3 Thunderbolt™ 3 and USB-C Dual Display Dock with 96W Host Charging
For Thunderbolt 3 systems:
Some systems with Thunderbolt 3 support may only have the ability to connect a single display through the Thunderbolt 3 port. This is due to how the system manufacturer has configured the internal circuitry of the computer between the system graphics card and the system Thunderbolt 3 controller. To be specific, they have only routed one DisplayPort video line/stream from the graphics card to the TBT3 controller.
As an example of this, many Intel NUC systems only support a single display, see here for reference: https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/support/articles/000021752/intel-nuc.html
We also see this configuration on many high end gaming laptops or desktop replacement workstation laptops that have one or more dedicated onboard video outputs. Unfortunately, this is often undocumented and you may need to contact your system manufacture to verify if they expect dual monitors will be supported over Thunderbolt 3.
Apple M1 and M2-based Macs (MacBook Air, Mac Mini, and MacBook Pro) only support a single display through Thunderbolt 3 or USB-C. (This limitation is a limitation of the M1 and M2 graphics card design.)
Please note that MacBook Air and MacBook Pro M3(base) can support up to two displays with the lid closed(clamshell) over Thunderbolt.
- macOS Sonoma 14.3 or later for MacBook Air M3 is required
- macOS Sonoma 14.6 or later for MacBook Pro M3 is required
For USB-C systems:
Apple USB-C only systems (without Thunderbolt 3 support) like the 2015 MacBook Retina 12" can only support a single display or will show two screens with mirrored images. This is because Apple does not support DisplayPort MST (multi-stream) which our dock uses to take a single USB-C DisplayPort Alternate Mode video line and connect two displays through it.
Windows USB-C systems should support MST in most cases, if you're only able to connect a single display, please contact us via support@plugable.com for further assistance!
I updated to macOS Big Sur 11.1 and now cannot connect dual displays or my displays are operating incorrectly.
Based on customer reports and information online found after this update, it appears that there is a regression in macOS Big Sur 11.1 that is causing video output issues through Thunderbolt 3 devices like our dock such as only a single display works versus two working prior with macOS Big Sur 11.0.1, or video resolutions and/or refresh rates are incorrect (example: only 4K @ 30Hz possible vs expected 4K @ 60Hz).
We encourage you to report these issue to Apple using their feedback form located here: https://www.apple.com/feedback/macos.html
Unfortunately, to resolve this issue you'll need to restore to a previous backup of your system if available for macOS Big Sur 11.0.1 or wait until the next update from Apple.
When I put my Mac to sleep it causes my entire network to stop functioning.
There is a known issue with the Apple provided built in macOS Ethernet drivers for the Realtek RTL8153 USB 3.0 Ethernet chipset used in our dock (and many other docks and USB Ethernet adapters on the market). When put to sleep, the problematic driver creates an Ethernet broadcast storm which can overwhelm some Ethernet routers.
For macOS Catalina 10.15.x users, please contact us via support@plugable.com and we can provide you with an updated driver and installation instructions.
For macOS Big Sur 11.x users, this behavior can be rectified by updating the host system to macOS Big Sur version 11.3 (released by Apple on 4/26/2021).
If you are unable to install third party drivers for macOS 10.15.x or are unable to upgrade from macOS Big Sur 11.x to 11.3, we recommend to disable your Mac from sleeping to prevent this issue, or use WiFi instead of Ethernet until you are able to install the driver at a later date or upgrade to the new macOS version.
If you need further assistance feel free to contact us via support@plugable.com and we'll be happy to help!
Can I use a longer Thunderbolt 3 or USB-C cable to connect the dock to my system?
For Thunderbolt 3 systems a longer cable can be used, but there are some important factors to consider. The longest passive Thunderbolt 3 cable rated for 40Gbps (required for dual displays via TBT3) at this time is already included and is 0.8m in length. Longer cables will need to be active cables. We don't sell any active cables but they are available at up to two meters.
For users with USB-C only systems a Thunderbolt 3 cable is not required. Instead, a longer USB 3.1 Gen 2 cable rated for 10Gbps can be used. We recommend no longer than 2m in length. However, due to the varying quality of USB-C cables on the market, a better alternative would be a 2m 20Gbps passive Thunderbolt 3 cable like our TBT3-20G2M: http://plugable.com/products/tbt3-20g2m
Please note: For docks with 60W (watts) Power Delivery charging capabilities a cable that supports 3A (amps) minimum is required. For docks that support greater than 60W (65W, 85W, 96W, 100W) charging, a 5A cable is required.
Kernel Panic When Connecting the Dock to My MacBook Pro 16″ (Intel)
Update 11/1/2021: We're happy to report this issue can now be resolved by updating from macOS Big Sur 11.x to macOS Monterey 12.0.1.
Plugable has been able to reproduce this problem internally and it has been raised to Apple for closer investigation. This issue appears to be from a regression introduced with the macOS Big Sur 11.4 update and is still present through 11.6.
This problem can occur when displays are connected to the docking station while the dock is reconnected to a Thunderbolt 3 port on a MacBook Pro 16" using the host Thunderbolt 3 cable (hot-plugged).
This kernel panic issue currently affects any docking station (Plugable-branded or otherwise) that uses what is known as DisplayPort Multi-Stream Transport (MST) to power one or more of the video outputs on a docking station. It is also specific to the MacBook Pro 16" system—other Mac systems do not exhibit the same problem.
To workaround this issue, we recommend disconnecting any HDMI displays from the dock before plugging the Thunderbolt 3 cable into the computer. Then, once connected, you may reconnect the HDMI display(s) to the dock.
My Windows Laptop Will Not Boot Properly When My Docking Station Is Connected
If your Windows laptop will not boot properly when a docking station is connected to the laptop, most often the cause is an external device connected to the docking station (for example an external USB storage drive) as opposed to the dock itself.
If you are affected by this condition, please follow these steps in order to isolate the behavior further:
- Disconnect all USB devices from the docking station and put them aside for the moment.
- Disconnect any displays connected to the dock's video outputs.
- Disconnect any audio devices connected to the dock's audio ports (if present).
- Disconnect the Ethernet network cable from the dock's Ethernet port (if present).
- The only remaining connections should be the dock's power adapter cable and the USB cable used to connect it to the laptop. No other external devices should be connected to the dock.
- While in this state, reboot the laptop to test the behavior.
- Assuming the laptop boots as expected, please reconnect each device back to the dock one at a time and reboot after each one to test the behavior again. Please reconnect the displays first, then the audio devices, then the Ethernet cable. Please reconnect any USB devices to the dock last, again rebooting after each one is added to test the behavior.
In our experience helping others, the most common cause of this behavior is an external USB storage drive connected to one of the dock's USB ports. In some cases, a laptop may try to boot from an external storage drive by mistake as opposed to the laptop's built-in storage drive. Since most external USB storage drives are not 'bootable', this can interrupt the boot process.
If this behavior occurs, the most common way to mitigate the behavior is to access the laptop's System BIOS (also known as UEFI firmware) to change the 'boot order' settings to ensure that the laptop's internal storage drive is the first boot option. Doing so helps ensure that the laptop will not try to boot from an external USB storage device.
Every laptop system is different, so the best resource for accessing the System BIOS and changing the settings is the manual for the laptop provided by the laptop manufacturer.
What side of my MacBook should I connect my dock to? Does this affect the dock performance or technical abilities?
For Intel based MacBook Pro models with four Thunderbolt 3 ports, some users have found connecting the dock to the left or right side to be more stable than the other. Due to some variance in MacBook designs, we've found it is best to experiment with your particular setup to find what works well for you. With that said, there are some specific situations where a particular side may be inherently better:
1) Older MacBook Pro models have had varying capabilities depending on the side used:
- MacBook Pro (15-inch, 2016) delivers full Thunderbolt 3 performance on all four ports.
- MacBook Pro (13-inch,2016, Four Thunderbolt 3 Ports) supports Thunderbolt 3 at full performance using the two left-hand ports. The two right-hand ports deliver Thunderbolt 3 functionality, but have reduced PCI Express bandwidth. Always plug higher-performance devices into the left-hand ports on MacBook Pro (13-inch, 2016, Four Thunderbolt 3 Ports) for maximum data throughput.
- MacBook Pro (13-inch, 2016, Two Thunderbolt 3 Ports) delivers full Thunderbolt 3 performance on both ports.
2) It has been suggested for 16" MacBook Pro owners to connect to the right side for the best performance. ExtremeTech has a great article about why this is here: http://extremetech.com/computing/309802-charging-a-macbook-on-the-wrong-side-can-significantly-lower-its-performance
3) It is also worth mentioning that per side of Thunderbolt 3 Intel based MacBooks, a maximum of two displays are supported. If using the dock on one side of the system for two displays, another display cannot be connected to the second Thunderbolt 3 port on that same side (this means Intel based MacBook Pros with only two ports will support only two displays).
Thunderbolt 3 MacBook Pros with four ports (two on each side) can support either two or four displays maximum depending on the system configuration. Intel graphics based four port models are limited to two displays only whereas AMD based graphics four port models can support four displays.
Example: You want to connect three or four displays to your four port AMD graphics based MacBook Pro, you will need to connect the dock to one side for two displays and the third or fourth displays must be connected to the opposite side of the system.
Note: Currently, M1 based Macs (MacBook Air, Mac Mini, and MacBook Pro) only support a single display through Thunderbolt 3 or USB-C. This is a limitation of the M1 graphics card design.
Please feel free to contact us at support@plugable.com if you have any questions!
Are the Thunderbolt 3 Docks Compatible With Thunderbolt Add-In Cards (AIC's)?
From our testing as well as customers' experiences, our Thunderbolt 3 docks are not compatible with Thunderbolt add-in cards and often result in USB devices being not detected when connected to a Thunderbolt add-in card on a desktop PC.
Monitor Flickering from HDMI Port on TBT3-UDC3 when connected to 2021 M1 MacBook Pro / 2019 MacBook Pro 16"
*UPDATED 5/11/2022 to address 2021 M1 MacBook Pro flickering issues with the HDMI port
This is a common issue that many customers have had with the HDMI port on the TBT3-UDC3 when connected to the 2021 M1 MacBook Pro's and the 2019 MacBook Pro 16".
We have released a firmware update for the dock that addresses this issue. If you have a Windows system with a USB-C or Thunderbolt 3 port, you can apply it to the dock yourself. Some users have reported that Boot Camp works as well to update the firmware. We have requested a Mac-compatible update tool from the chipset manufacturer and will update the post with those instructions if they are able to create one. If you have access to a Windows system to update the firmware, the instructions are as follows:
- Please download the firmware update utility here on your Windows USB-C or Thunderbolt 3 computer: Link to download firmware update utility
- Extract the folder named “TBT3-UDC3_FW_Updater ” from the zip file above.
- Set up the TBT3-UDC3 dock that is to be flashed by connecting it to power, and connecting an HDMI monitor to the HDMI input on the dock. Make sure that the HDMI monitor is active and running
- Use the included Thunderbolt 3 cable with the dock and connect the dock to the Windows Thunderbolt 3 or USB-C computer. Make sure that the HDMI display is working before proceeding
- Navigate into the “TBT3-UDC3_FW_Updater” folder, then launch VmmUpdater.exe
- You should see a current “Firmware version” of “5.04.003” or "5.05.202". Click on the “Update firmware” button, then select the file named “Panamera_fw_tortilla_qsi_Ver5_05_214.FullRom.fullrom” under the folder of “TBT3-UDC3_FW_Updater”
- It should take a quick moment to flash, then you should be prompted that the action is completed. Close out of the VmmUpdate.exe application, then unplug power from the dock so that it fully powers off
- Wait 10 seconds, then re-plug the power to the dock. Once the HDMI display pops back up, double-check that the FW flashed successfully by launching VmmUpdater.exe once more, and confirm that the “Firmware version” now says “5.05.214”
If you are experiencing these flickering issues with your 2021 M1 MacBook Pro / 2019 MacBook Pro 16" but do not have access to a Windows device to update the firmware, please reach out to us at support@plugable.com
Note that this firmware update is only intended to address flickering issues on the HDMI port on the TBT3-UDC3 when connected to the 2021 M1 MacBook Pro / 2019 MacBook Pro 16" and it is not guaranteed to address flickering issues on other devices.
Docking Station Power Adapters
Below is a list of power adapter models used by Plugable docking stations. We offer refurbished replacement power adapters on eBay as they are available for purchase, however, we may not have replacement power adapters available for all of our docking stations.
If the power adapter for your docking station or region is not listed, out of stock on eBay or if you have any other questions regarding replacement power adapters for our docks please contact us at support@plugable.com and we will be happy to assist further.
We offer a 30-day return period for our replacement power adapters listed on eBay.
| Dock Models | Power Supply Model Number | Replacement Power Supply (if available) |
|---|---|---|
| USB 3.0 / USB-C Docking Stations | ||
| UD-3900 UD-3000 UD-5900 UD-PRO8 UD-3900C |
DSA-24PFS-05 |
|
| UD-3900H | P120W2000U |
|
| UD-3900PDZ | ADS-110CL-19-3 2000090E |
|
| UD-3900Z | ADS-26SGP-12 12024E |
|
| UD-6950 | A16-045N3A |
|
| UD-6950H | P200W2000UG |
|
| UD-6950Z | ADS-40SGP-19 20040G |
|
| UD-CA1 UD-CA1A |
EA10953D-200 |
|
| UD-ULTCDL (MK1 original and MK2 updated version) Note: Check here to determine what version of dock you have |
A16-065N2A (MK1 model) A18-135P1B-Rev3 (MK2 model) Note: MK2 model adapters will work with MK1 docks |
|
| UD-ULTC4K (MK1 original and MK2 updated version) Note: Check here to determine what version of dock you have |
A16-100P1A (MK1 model) A18-135P1B-Rev3 (MK2 model) Note: MK2 model adapters will work with MK1 docks |
|
| UD-3900C4 |
A18-135P1B-Rev3 |
North America plug |
| UD-3900PDH |
PS200D06500G1 |
|
| UD-768PDZ |
PA-1131-72 v2 |
North America plug |
| UD-6950PDZ |
A16-100P1A rev 3 |
North America plug |
| UD-MSTH2 |
ADS-110DL-19-1 200110E |
North America plug |
| UD-MSTHDC |
ADS-110DL-19-1 200110E |
North America plug |
| UD-CAM |
A16-100P1A |
|
| UD-CUBE |
EA1024CR-050 |
|
| UD-6950PDH |
F-J-SW202720006700 |
|
| Thunderbolt / USB4 Docking Stations | ||
| TBT4-UDZ |
PA-1131-72 v2 |
North America plug |
| TBT3-UDC1 | PA-1131-72 v1 |
|
| TBT3-UDV | A18-135P1B-Rev1 |
|
| TBT3-UDZ | PA-1171-72 |
|
| TBT3-UDC3 | PA-1171-72 |
|
| TBT4-HUB3C | ADS-110DL-19-1 200110E |
|
| USB4-HUB3A |
ADS-110DL-19-1-200100E |
North America plug |
| TBT4-UD5 | FJ-SW202720006400 |
|
| TBT4-UDX1 | A18-135P1B-Rev4 A18-135P1B-Rev3 (Large Barrel) |
|
| UD-4VPD |
PA-1171-72 |
North America plug |
Why do I not see any video when using a USB-C to DisplayPort cable?
When connecting to a monitor that accepts a USB-C input, from a docking station that outputs DisplayPort (such as the UD-6950, UD-6950Z, UD-6950H, TBT3-UDZ, TBT3-UDC3), you will need to use a DisplayPort to USB-C "Bi-Directional" cable. This is because many USB-C to DisplayPort cables are unidirectional and only send data in one direction, from USB-C source device to a DisplayPort input port on a monitor.
Additional information:
- Be sure to use a DisplayPort to USB-C cable that supports the 1.2 DisplayPort standard (or higher).
- To ensure optimal performance the maximum recommended cable length should be no longer than 1.8 meters (6 feet).
An example of a DisplayPort to USB-C "Bi-Directional" cable can be seen here: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B081VK1KHV
Can I Connect a USB-C Monitor or USB-C Video Adapter to My Thunderbolt 3 Dock?
The USB-C ports (excluding the host connection) on our TBT3-UDZ, TBT3-UDC3, and TBT3-UDC1 do not support video output. This means that USB-C/Thunderbolt monitors as well as USB-C video adapters will not output a display when connected to these ports.
Our TBT3-UD1-85W and TBT3-UD1-83 docks have a downstream Thunderbolt 3 port that can support video output up to 4K resolution @ 60Hz, so USB-C/Thunderbolt monitors as well as USB-C video adapters should output a display when connected to these ports.
My Plugable Dock Is Missing a Component Such As the Power Supply, USB Cable, or Other Adapter.
If your package is missing one or more of the items that should be included with your Plugable dock (included items are listed on a chart on the side of the box), start by double checking if the part is still in the packaging. Pieces can occasionally get stuck in the corners under the main insert in the box.
If you are still unable to locate the piece, please contact support@plugable.com with the following information:
1. Amazon Order ID (or other proof of purchase) associated with your Plugable device.
2. A description of the parts that are missing from your order.
3. Your preferred shipping address (and a phone number associated with that address).
4. The serial number of your Plugable Dock.
Can I Connect My High Refresh Rate Monitor (e.g. 120Hz, 144Hz) to a Plugable Dock?
Most Plugable docks do not officially support monitors over 60Hz including 120Hz or 144Hz refresh rate unless otherwise specified on the Plugable product page or listing.
DisplayLink USB Graphics technology and Silicon Motion based docking stations and graphics adapters, like our USB 3.0 dual display and USB Type-C triple display docking stations, are limited to 60Hz fresh rate by the USB graphics controller hardware.
USB Type-C DisplayPort Alternate Mode docking station and ports on our USB Type-C Triple Display Docking Stations can support higher refresh rates, but may be limited by the computer's capability and available bandwidth to the docking station. Additionally, when paired with DisplayLink or Silicon Motion USB graphics, having displays at different refresh rates may reduce overall system performance. Due to this we normally recommend limiting all connected displays to 60Hz refresh rate when using DisplayLink and Silicon Motion graphics technology with directly connected, or USB Type-C DisplayPort Alternate Mode controlled displays.
Monitors with refresh rates higher then 60Hz may be connected to a docking station operating at up to 60Hz, or connected directly on the computer's HDMI or DisplayPort to ensure the display is powered by the system's native GPU.
Do Plugable products support the Apple SuperDrive?
Unfortunately Plugable products do not support the Apple SuperDrive.
The Apple SuperDrive has stringent power requirements that can only be met by directly connecting the SuperDrive to your host laptop. As a result at this time Apple recommends only using their USB-C adapter cables. You can find more information on that here → How to connect the Apple USB SuperDrive
If you have purchased a Plugable product to use with your Apple SuperDrive, and would like some additional assistance please do not hesitate to reach out. You can do so by emailing support@plugable.com, or going to Plugable.com/Support.
My Plugable product with wired Ethernet is no longer working on macOS. What can I do?
Please Note
The below guide is an advanced troubleshooting step, and we do not recommend doing so unless you are comfortable manually altering files on your Apple product running macOS. You may not be able to perform the below troubleshooting step if you are unable to execute administrative credentials on your laptop. Please reach out to our support first if you do not wish to attempt the below instructions. You can do so at Plugable.com/Support
How to delete a specific Ethernet adapter from your Network devices on macOS
- Click on the Apple logo in the top left corner of your primary monitor, and select ‘System Preferences’
- Next select ‘Network’ in the ‘System Preferences' window.
- In the now visible list, please select the Plugable Ethernet, or Thunderbolt Ethernet device that may not be working as expected.
- Once selected click on the minus button in the bottom left of the network window.
- Click on Apply in the bottom right.
- Next click on the plus button in the bottom left of the network window, and add the previously removed device.
- Click on Apply in the bottom right.
- Test to see if this has resolved the unexpected behavior, and assure that your Ethernet is now working.
- If this does not resolve the problem, please proceed to the next section (As noted previously the next section is for advanced users only!)
Manually erase your macOS Network Settings to fully reset the Network configuration
(Advanced! Click to reveal)
- Open the ‘Finder’ app, then in the ‘Go’ menu at the top of your screen select ‘Computer’
- Click on ‘Macintosh HD’ then Library, Preferences, SystemConfiguration
- Copy the file named ‘NetworkInterfaces.plist’ to your desktop as a backup of your current configuration.
- Delete the original version of the ‘NetworkInterfaces.plist’ located in the SystemConfiguration directory.
- Restart your Mac
- Login to your Mac, and return to System Preferences → Network
- If the list is now empty, please re-add the Plugable or Thunderbolt network adapter by clicking on the plus button in the bottom left of the Network window. Once done click on 'Apply'.
- Test to see if this has resolved the unexpected network behavior
I am still unable to get my Ethernet connection working on my Mac
If this is the case please reach out to our support team. When you do please include a diagnostic log gathered using our PlugDebug tool (instructions are provided on the PlugDebug page). If you are not able to gather the PlugDebug diagnostics do not worry we are still here to help! Please reach out to our support team at support@plugable.com or Plugable.com/Support with a detailed description of your problem, and the model of Plugable product you are using.
Thunderbolt 3 Authentication
Windows systems need to have newly attached Thunderbolt 3 devices authenticated before they can be used. For most computers this process needs to be performed manually through the Legacy Thunderbolt utility installed on your computer. Newer Windows host systems (around November 2018 and newer) may be using an updated driver model, Declarative C
Below we will cover both methods of authentication as well as how to check NVM on older systems to see if an update is required. These processes may vary depending on how the host system Thunderbolt security level is configured in the UEFI BIOS, however, most systems will be set for user authorization or secure connect.
Thunderbolt 3 DCH and Legacy Driver:
Legacy Thunderbolt 3 Authentication (non DCH Thunderbolt 3 drivers & Thunderbolt Utility):
When first connecting a Thunderbolt 3 device to a Windows system, the device must first be authenticated through Intel’s Thunderbolt 3 software. After connecting a Thunderbolt 3 device the first thing that you should see (assuming that the system NVM, UEFI BIOS, drivers, etc are up to date and compatible) is an automatic notification above the system tray notifying you that a new device has been attached. You will want to click OK:
After clicking OK, you may get a Windows User Account Control (UAC) popup asking if you “want to allow this app to make changes to your PC?”. Click Yes:
After clicking yes you should see an application window appear where you will approve the Thunderbolt 3 device that was just attached:
Click on the drop down menu where it says “Do Not Connect” and select “Always Connect”. Then click OK:
To view and manage the approved devices you can find the program sitting in the system tray. You may need to click the caret (up arrow icon) to show all of the running programs then right click on the Thunderbolt icon it and select Manage Approved Devices:
You may again get a Windows UAC prompt, click yes. After clicking yes the below window will open and you can see any approved devices and remove them if you choose.
Thunderbolt 3 Authentication (DCH Thunderbolt 3 drivers & Windows App Store Thunderbolt Utility):
For systems running the DCH version of the Thunderbolt 3 drivers and the Windows Store Thunderbolt Control Center app, many newer hosts will automatically authenticate the attached device using secure connect. For systems where your attached Thunderbolt 3 device is not authenticated automatically via secure connect you can authenticate the device manually. Start by searching the start menu for Thunderbolt and selecting the Thunderbolt Control Center:
Here you should see your attached device:
To approve the device click on the menu button (three horizontal lines) and then click “Approve devices”:
Next you can select “Always connect” and then press “OK” at the bottom of the application:
Your device should then automatically be approved the next time it is attached.
Checking NVM Version (Legacy)
How do I check which version of Thunderbolt 3 software and NVM firmware I am running in Windows?
To determine what version of NVM firmware your system has, the first step is to ensure you have the latest Thunderbolt software version which varies depending on the system manufacturer. You should be able to download it from your system manufacturer’s website.
Once installed you can open the software by searching the start menu for Thunderbolt:
Once open you can find the program sitting in the system tray. You may need to click the caret (up arrow icon) to show all of the running programs then right click on the Thunderbolt icon and select Settings:
Now you should see the settings window. Click on Details to find out all of the Thunderbolt software and controller information:
If a Thunderbolt 3 device has been connected to the system the Thunderbolt software will show you information about the controller. Below you can see the details from our Dell XPS 13 9350 system:
Unfortunately if a Thunderbolt device has not yet been connected to the system, the information about the NVM firmware may not be available within the utility:
Support
If you have any questions feel free to contact our support team, we’re more than happy to help!
Thunderbolt and the Thunderbolt logo are trademarks of Intel Corporation in the U.S. and/or other countries.
Can I leave my notebook computer connected to a charging dock overnight, or should I discharge and recharge the notebook battery regularly?
We are often asked if it is okay to leave a notebook computer connected to one of our USB-C docking stations with Power Delivery for extended periods of time. The short answer is yes, it is no different from leaving the laptop connected to the manufacturer's original USB-C power supply for the same time. The long answer is yes for modern laptops, and maybe for older (1990s-early 2000s laptops) and involves going into the different battery technologies used in consumer electronics devices.
Another common question is if it is possible to use the docking station but to disable powering and charging the computer. When a modern notebook computer runs on battery power it will often set the system to a reduced power state which may impact performance, or connected devices and we recommend always powering the computer when using a desktop docking station. For all of our docking stations that provide power to the host computer this will not affect the lifespan of the computer's battery.
Modern Laptop Batteries: Lithium-Ion
Lithium-ion (li-ion) batteries are found in a wide range of consumer electronics from notebook computers and cell phones, to electric cars, power tools, and wearable electronics like wireless earbuds. Li-ion offers fast charging, high-current discharging, fairly long service live compared to other rechargeable battery technologies and are relatively inexpensive.
The life-span of a rechargeable battery depends on many factors including age, temperature history, charging patterns, the chemical composition of the specific battery, and usage. For example batteries stored at 100% charge will degrade faster than batteries stored at 50% charge, this is why most consumer electronics devices arrive from the manufacturer with between 25% to 75% charge.
Lithium-ion batteries are consumable components, however in most modern computers, cell phones, and tablets these are not user serviceable components. To help maintain the battery all modern computers and most consumer electronics will include battery charge and protection circuits. These can be fairly simple, charging up the battery at preset rates depending on the charge level to help maintain the battery life, or complex software controlled charging that monitors battery temperature, voltage and current draw to maintain the fastest charging while maintaining the battery longevity.
Modern notebook computers can be left connected to the original power cable or a docking station with charging capability for extended periods, and do not benefit from regular discharge/recharge cycles. Our docking stations with charging capability rely on USB Type-C Power Delivery to power and charge compatible computers. USB Type-C Power Delivery is a negotiated charging protocol between the host computer and the docking station or USB Type-C power supply, this allows the computer to draw only the power it requires, and even select the best voltage level for powering the computer. In combination with a computer's built-in battery charging controller the computer is capable of maintaining the battery's optimal state even when left connected to a power source for an extended period of time.
Legacy Laptop Batteries: NiCad and NiMH
Older laptops, from the 1990s and some early 2000s, as well as some consumer electronics, and most rechargeable AA or AAA battery replacements use Nickel-Cadmium (NiCad) or Nickel-Metal Hydride (NiMH) batteries. These batteries are slower to charge and discharge than li-ion batteries, and require very simple charge controllers, and in some cases can even be trickle-charged ( very low-current continuous charging ) if desired.
These batteries generally don't have smart charging controllers and to prolong the life of the battery required "training" or fully discharging and recharging the battery every so often. Many laptop manufacturers recommended fully charging and discharging a new laptop 2-3 times to train the battery, this is not necessary with modern laptops.
Conclusion
Modern notebook batteries are managed by the computer's built-in battery charging circuit, and require little to no user intervention to maintain optimal battery health. It does not harm the battery to leave the computer connected to an external power supply, so long as the computer is being used regularly. If the computer is to be stored for a prolonged period then discharging the battery to between 50-75% can help to maintain the battery life.
Batteries are consumable components and degrade over time, however modern notebook computers can extend the battery life generally to meet or exceed the life of the computer's other electronic components.
Understanding Heat Generation in Electronics
It's not uncommon for users to notice a certain level of heat generation from electronics and by extension, Plugable products during operation. In this knowledge base article, we'll explore the reasons behind this heat generation and why it is considered a normal experience within reasonable limits.
Electronics, by their nature, generate heat during operation. This is primarily a result of the electrical current flowing through various components, such as integrated circuits, transistors, and other electronic elements. As Plugable products are designed to efficiently process and transfer data (among other functionality), some level of heat generation is inherent.
Factors Influencing Heat Generation:
- Power Consumption: The power consumption of a device directly influences the amount of heat it generates. Higher power usage, especially during data transfer or charging processes, can lead to increased heat.
- Enclosure Design: The design of the product's enclosure and its ability to dissipate heat play a crucial role. Adequate ventilation and heat sinks are often incorporated to manage and disperse generated heat effectively. This is evident in our TBT3-UDZ and TBT4-UDZ designs. The metal case in these docks are designed to function as a heatsink with thermal pads placed throughout the enclosure. This allows heat dissipation from inside to the outside, but will also make it feel as if the device is “too hot”.
- Ambient Temperature: The external environment may also play a role. Higher ambient temperatures can contribute to increased perceived heat from the product. This means that summer temperatures may increase the heat generation of not just Plugable products, but many other electronic devices.
Normal Heat Levels: While it is normal for electronic devices to generate heat, Plugable products are engineered to operate within safe temperature ranges. We conduct rigorous testing to ensure that the heat generated during normal operation falls within industry-standard safety parameters. While not all products are or need to be UL certified, we try to go by UL guidelines for thermal readings. The UL threshold is 77C/170.6F, and we aim for around 71C/160F.
Tips for Users:
- Ventilation: Ensure that Plugable products have sufficient ventilation around them. Avoid placing them in enclosed spaces where heat dissipation may be impeded.
- Usage Patterns: Intensive tasks such as high-speed data transfer or charging multiple devices simultaneously may result in increased heat generation. This is generally normal but may be more noticeable in such scenarios.
- Accessories: A number of our devices will allow for the connection of USB accessories and as such, these will require power. If too many “power-hungry” devices are connected, this will cause the device to run much hotter than expected. Be sure to keep in mind the power limits of your dock/device.
In conclusion, experiencing heat from Plugable products is a normal aspect of their operation. Users can rest assured that we prioritize the safety and efficiency of our devices. By understanding the factors influencing heat generation and following simple usage guidelines, users can make the most of their Plugable products while ensuring a reliable and efficient user experience.
DisplayLink and "Screen Recording" Troubleshooting
If you have installed your DisplayLink-enabled docking station or graphics adapter and downloaded the DisplayLink software, but see that no displays are working properly, you may need to enable “Screen Recording”. In this guide, we will go over a short list of steps to enable this permission, and get your DisplayLink device up and running!
As of macOS Catalina (version 10.15), DisplayLink drivers that are installed require that the “Screen Recording” permission be granted by the user. While this permission, when used in conjunction with DisplayLink is not recording in a traditional sense, it does allow DisplayLink to access the pixels it needs to render images (mirrored or extended). It then sends these pixels over USB from the computer to the display connected to your DisplayLink connected device.
Note: It does not capture or send any data.
During the installation process for the DisplayLink drivers, you will be requested to allow “Screen Recording” for DisplayLink. Additionally, you may see a notification within the DisplayLink application and when a new device is connected. However, we understand sometimes these may get lost in a sea of information and other notifications.
How do I know if the Screen Recording permission hasn’t been set? Reference the image below to check in your “Privacy & Security” settings
If you have not enabled “Screen Recording”, please follow these few instructions to enable it.
- Click on the Apple icon (defaults to the top left corner of your screen) and select “System Preferences
- Navigate to and click “Security & Privacy”
- In this window, select “Privacy”
- A list will be presented, scroll until you find “Screen Recording” and click on it
- Displayed on the bottom left, there is a lock icon, click on this to make changes
- If prompted, login using your computer credentials to make changes
- Check the box next to DisplayLink Manager
- You will be promoted to “Quit & Reopen”, click this button
- Click on the lock icon once more to save your changes
Note: Some of these steps may vary slightly based on your macOS version
You should now be able to see your displays on your docking station or adapter. If you have completed the above steps successfully and still do not see your displays, please be sure to reach out to our support team at support@plugable.com.
How To - Set a Network to Private or Public in Windows 10 & 11
The Windows Firewall may block some networking features when the local network is not set to Private. This article will describe the process for setting the local network, either wired Ethernet or Wi-Fi to be a Private network.
Windows 11
1 - Connect the computer to the network, either wired or wireless
2 - Open the Windows Settings - right-click on the Start Menu and select “Settings” from the pop-up menu
3 - On the left column select “Network & internet”
For Wired Networks
4 - Select the “Ethernet” option
5 - The connected network should be expanded, if not click on “Network Connected" to expand the section
6 - Select the “Network profile type” either “Public network” or “Private network” to suite your needs
For Wi-Fi Networks
4 - Select the “Wi-Fi” option
5 - Select your Wi-Fi network name “properties”
6 - Select the “Network profile type” either “Public network” or “Private network” to suite your needs
Windows 10
1 - Connect the computer to the network, either wired or wireless
2 - Open the Windows Settings - right-click on the Start Menu and select “Settings” from the pop-up menu
3 - Select “Network & Internet” fro the bottom section
4 - Select the “Ethernet” option from the left pane
5 - Select the “Connected” network from the right pane
6 - Select the “Network profile type” either “Public network” or “Private network” to suite your needs
Windows PowerShell
If the option does not show up in the Windows Settings GUI, or if you prefer to use the terminal.
1 - Open a new terminal: Right-click on the Start Menu and select “Terminal”
2 - Run the following command to list the available networks
Get-NetConnectionProfile
PS C:\Users\plugable> Get-NetConnectionProfile Name : Network InterfaceAlias : Ethernet Instance 0 InterfaceIndex : 7 NetworkCategory : Private DomainAuthenticationKind : None IPv4Connectivity : Internet IPv6Connectivity : NoTraffic
3 - Run the following command to set the network to Private
Set-NetConnectionProfile -Name Network -NetworkCategory Private
Where “Network” is the network name from step #2 and “Private” can be either “Public" or “Private”
How to Use Two External Displays with the Lid Closed on MacBook Air and MacBook Pro M3
Overview
With the release of Apple’s M3 CPU chips and the Sonoma 14.6 update your base MacBook Air and MacBook Pro systems with M3 chips can now host two external displays natively in clamshell mode. This guide will walk you through the process of setting up and using two external displays with the lid closed on your MacBook Air or MacBook Pro equipped with an Apple M3 chip.
Requirements
Before getting started, ensure you have the following:
- MacBook Air or MacBook Pro with an Apple M3 chip.
- macOS Sonoma 14.3 or later for an M3 MacBook Air or macOS Sonoma 14.6 or later for an M3 MacBook Pro.
- Two external displays with compatible video inputs (e.g., HDMI, DisplayPort, USB-C).
- A dock or graphics adapter can be used as well.
- External keyboard and mouse (wired or wireless).
- Power adapter or power source for your MacBook
- A docking station that provides adequate charge can be used in place of the native power adapter, be sure to check the wattage your dock provides.
Steps to Set Up Dual External Displays with the Lid Closed
1. Set Up Your External Keyboard and Mouse
- If you’re using a wired keyboard and mouse, connect them directly to your MacBook or Plugable dock.
- For wireless peripherals, ensure they are paired with your MacBook and functioning properly.
- An AC adapter/power cable of some kind will also need to be connected for clamshell mode to function properly. This adapter can be one from a docking station or the included Apple adapter.
2. Connect Your Displays
- Connect the first external display to your MacBook using the appropriate cable (e.g., HDMI, DisplayPort, USB-C)
- Close your laptop’s lid.
- Connect the second external display using a similar method.
- Ensure both displays are powered on and set to the correct input source.
3. Configure Display Settings
- Open System Settings on your MacBook.
- Go to Displays.
- You should see both external displays listed. Arrange them according to your preference by dragging the display icons.
- Adjust the resolution, refresh rate, and other settings as needed.
4. Enable "Clamshell Mode" (Lid Closed Mode)
- With your external displays connected and set up, close the lid of your MacBook.
- Your MacBook will automatically switch to "Clamshell Mode," where the internal display turns off, and the external displays become your primary screens.
- Ensure your MacBook is connected to a power source to prevent it from entering sleep mode.
5. Check the Display Arrangement
- With the lid closed, check that the external displays are functioning as expected.
- If necessary, re-open the Displays settings to adjust the arrangement, resolution, or other preferences.
Troubleshooting Tips
- No Display on External Monitors: If the external displays are not showing anything, open the lid of your MacBook and check the connections.
- MacBook Sleeps When Lid Is Closed: Make sure your MacBook is connected to a power adapter. Clamshell Mode requires the MacBook to be plugged into an external power source.
- Performance Issues: If you experience lag or performance drops, try lowering the resolution or refresh rate of the external displays.
Thunderbolt Dock Users
With these steps, one can use Plugable Thunderbolt docks to enjoy a dual-display setup without the need for additional software installation. The dock leverages the native capabilities of the MacBook Air M3 and MacBook Pro M3, providing a straightforward and efficient solution for expanding your workspace with additional USB ports, audio, and ethernet (as well as the dual displays).
Additional Resources
If you should need any assistance with your setup, please feel free to reach out to our support team at support@plugable.com.
